May 29, 2016 / Leave a Comment
When we asked around for must-visit dining destinations in Copenhagen, Radio was a name that popped up time and again – so needless to say we simply had to pop in to see what all the fuss was about.
Given that the schedule was already pretty jammed full of fine dining, we lined up Radio as part two (well technically three) of our ‘bang-bang’ Saturday lunch. Following hot on the heels of our impressive experience at Relae, the team at Radio had their work cut out for them.
We were surprised to see Radio has not yet been bestowed a Michelin star (it is recommended however), but it’s not totally surprising. Michelin tends to flavour a ‘certain type’ of establishment and Radio is cut from a different cloth – it’s got more of a hipster/industrial/Scandic vibe going on here. Beautiful rough wooden walls and industrial lights make for a backdrop deserving of the cuisine that was to follow.
One of the best things about Radio’s lunch menu is you can choose the number of courses you want, from simply a taste to a full on feast. At 100DKK per course they are great value for the size too – around three times the size of the more typical multi course plate sizes we dined on at Relae.
Given that we were four (Relae) and one (Manfreds) courses down, we opted to try one savory course and a dessert each. These were of course supplemented by extras – the typically delicious Danish thick sliced sourdough, this one accompanied by a stunning caramelised onion butter – it was divine! I have a major weakness for caramelised onions. Heaven! I seriously had to hold myself back from gorging the lot. Our amuse was equally beautiful – cucumber (it really was a big day for cucumber) with smoked cream. Very refreshing, and as they do in this town, subtle.
I have to say I’m a fan of the wine list at Radio also. As a totally biased ambassador of New Zealand wines, I was delighted to see they had one of my all time NZ faves on the list (and thankfully one that I’ve seen pop up on many wine lists of highly regarded establishments around the world lately) – the Neudorf Chardonnay. It’s so good that my dining companion, who is not a fan of Chardonnay (or white wine in general) absolutely loved it – no mean feat, as I’m sure other Chardonnay fans can attest.
What I ordered:
CHICKEN / BROCCOLI / RAMSON
RHUBARB / YOGHURT / CHOCOLATE
Now for the main event, my dish of chicken (leg) and broccoli (stems). Sounds simple right? To make a dish this creamy yet light, simple yet overwhelmingly satisfying takes skill. And it seems the Radio boys have it in spades.
The foaminess of the sauce was incredibly ethereal but not taking away from the dish having adequate substance. I loved the idea to serve the broccoli stems instead of the florets (I use the stem often in stir frys and love it) and the fact that they used leg instead of breast really worked well texture wise. The size of the dish was impressive too – I was always surprised as I had that ‘oh no, it’s almost over feeling’ then to discover I had plenty more of the dish remaining to enjoy! It’s equally impressive to enjoy the last bite of a dish of this size as much as the first, which I definitely did.
To follow was what ended up being my favourite dessert of the Copenhagen trip – containing malt biscuit, fennel, rhubarb, yoghurt and baked white chocolate. Surprising that a non-starred restaurant took out this title, but to me it seemed that some of the two and three Michelin starred chefs are focusing so heavily on weird and wacky desserts that they’ve lost touch with flavours that truly satisfy at the end of a (usually long) meal. Bee pollen anyone? Sorry, but no thanks! Relae‘s brown cheese dessert comes in at a close second. Both give flavours that are exciting enough but just taste superb with texture that pleased the palate.
Back to Radio’s dessert specifically – yes, rhubarb is back once again, but it worked so well in combination with the other elements, particularly the fennel and chocolate. The baked white chocolate was absolutely sensational and deserves a mention all of it’s own!
Radio is rustic gone radical, and given how good our experience was, it will surely be getting a prime time spot on our schedule next visit. As you’ll see from the rating below, the service and ambience need some work – but it’s fantastic food and great value! Don’t leave this hit off your dining playlist next time you’re in Denmark’s dining capital.
Overall Rating: 8.3/10
Five courses 400 dkk
Three courses 300 dkk
For lunch Friday and Saturday – courses from 100 dkk/ea
JULIUS THOMSENS GADE 12
1632 KØBENHAVN V
T. (+45) 2510 2733
TUESDAY-SATURDAY FROM 17.30-24.00
LUNCH, FRIDAY AND SATURDAY