La Bordeaux by Gordon Ramsay – Bordeaux, France

Gordon Ramsay's La Bordeaux in Bordeaux, France

Having not realised that many Bordeaux establishments are closed on Sunday, we were lucky enough that the team at Gordon Ramsay’s La Bordeaux could squeeze us in for dinner at the last minute.

Not to be confused with Gordon’s flagship Bordeaux establishment, Le Pressoir d’Argent, this is the more casual side of his operation at the Intercontinental Bordeaux (though still in pretty swanky surrounds if I’m honest).

It’s Gordon’s signature style of modern, hearty British cuisine – his famous Beef Wellington for two is on the menu (79 Euro) among a roster of classics – Caesar salad, Lemon meringue pie and the like. It’s a reliable, if not exciting menu that should please families or groups visiting the French wine region who don’t want to go whole hog degustation at Le Pressoir d’Argent.

What we ordered…

(prices in Euro)

Steak tartare – 21 (main size)

with grilled country bread

‘Rossini’ burger with sauté foie gras – 29

black truffle, comtè cheese, red wine onion marmalade

Côte de porc – 25

crushed potatoes, roasted apple, sauce charcutière

Onion rings – 9

tomato salsa and sauce gribiche

There’s outside and inside seating available, though we picked inside. With it’s gorgeous deep ruby velvet chairs and mood lighting, it’s a lovely setting for dinner indeed.

We ordered the main size Beef tartare to start, and I have to give this dish top marks – it really was one of the best beef tartares I’ve had, with just the right mix of mayonnaise and capers. Delicious – I could eat this by the bowlful.

Gordon Ramsay's La Bordeaux in Bordeaux, FranceWe get into heavier territory with our mains – the ‘Rossini’ burger is not for the faint of heart, or those with heart problems! It has enough foie gras to cause a coronary, and definitely too much for my tastes. All you need is a little foie to give a gourmet burger a luscious touch, a la The NoMad‘s chicken burger. Can’t fault the delicious beef, truffle, red wine onion marmalade and comtè cheese however, all superb – I just can’t help wondering if the burger would have been better without the foie. Just too rich on the whole and I don’t think we even conquered half of the portion!

Our side of onion rings come hanging on a piece of metal pipe which was certainly unexpected plating  in the elegant surrounds, but I appreciated the playful contrast. I’m an onion ring obsessive, and these were just too bready for me, I ended up having to pull off half the batter so I could get the right balance of onion to batter.

The pork dish by comparison is much more sensible, and whilst the pork fillet is tasty and tender, the dish on the whole is just a bit…well…boring, really. It could have been a dish at any European restaurant and I expected just a bit more finesse or detail at an establishment bearing Gordon Ramsay’s name.

Gordon Ramsay's La Bordeaux in Bordeaux, FranceBoth the service and wine were lovely, and they happily decanted our choice of red – fab! The atmosphere indoors is cosy, elegant and certainly more of an intimate and romantic vibe tham the outdoor tables. I definitely recommend that foie lovers visit to attempt to conquer the ‘Rossini’, but more adventurous foodies might be disappointed with the tame offering. It’s a safe and reliable choice for those who don’t want to wander too far from good, hearty British cuisine, or if you have a large group to please with differing tastes. The food is definitely good, and I’m always happy to taste Gordon-approved fare – but next time I’m in Bordeaux I’ll have to make sure I plan well in advance enough to secure a table at Le Pressoir d’Argent to compare!

The Verdict:

Food: 14.5/20
Service: 9/10
Ambience: 8.8/10
Decor: 8.5/10
Value: 6/10
Overall Rating: 7.8/10
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